Mountain Turtle

Okay, so this humungo Huayhuash hike begins Friday morning, at 2 am when the van picks me up from the akilpo hotel and I take a seven hour journey to the trail head in Matacancha. (Thst is why I brought my butt donut). So what have I been doing while waiting? Two days of acclimating, wandering through cuy markets and […]

Limathon

I hobbled over to the finish line near Lima’s Kennedy Parque on Sunday morning, where only one feline dared to be out. It was the Lima 2026 Marathon. This annual event brings throngs of people to the city. Some are serious athletes (like the winner below), but others go for the fun. The runners represented several countries as well as […]

Bucket list

I live as if you only die once. I can think of three vivid days when I thought I would die, of have that infamous kick- the-bucket day. Once in Vietnam, another in Thailand, the third, going inside an abandoned mine in Peru. There were countless defying death days in China, where I’d risk my life just by crossing the […]

Time Travel

A week has seven days, 168 hours or 10,080 minutes theoretically. But in Peru, you can cram in thousands of years. More than potatoes or ceviche stands or presidential candidates, this country has history. Start with sexy women…no, not those pious women but sexy women, the tourist-friendly pronunciation of Sacsayhuaman, the citadel on the northeorthen outskirts of Cusco, not Costco, […]

Cognitive Test for the Rest of Us

If you’re old enough that you still remember what a phone book and Facebook are, see if you can answer these questions: Where are your house keys? What’s the password to your Frequent Flyer account? What’s the 6 digit code the airline just sent to your email so you can access your account, but can only retrieve if you close […]

Lost Pérdida

The list was worthy of a world record. Umbrellas. Fountain pens. Three cell phones (actually two, as one was stolen), two favorite pair of sunglasses, one being retro Bausch Lomb scored for two dollars at an estate sale in Detroit, then left at a bus station in Vietnam, and another in a coffee shop in China, and a pair of […]