Rimac Close Up

Rimac is not on the videos you see posted on YouTube about Lima, Peru. Actually, Rimac is one of the areas in Lima you are warned not to visit, unless you are accompanied by a few buff guys, which I was. This vibrant districts is also home to one of Lima’s shanty towns that bring a bit of color to the sandy terrain.

Where is Rimac anyway?

Just north of the city center, you can get to Rimac by crossing the oldest bridge in Lima. Rimac River contains more stone than water, with more vultures than fish. Once in Rimac, you’ll find promenades of yesterday that have lost their luster but not their charm, like the Alameda de los Descalzos which is lined with marble statues. You’ll also see future soccer players kicking their balls and the Plaze de Acho, one of the most famous bull fighting arenas in South America. Bull fighting season is November.

But before we risked our lives or at least our cell phones in Rimac, we visited the Concurso Nacional de Nacimiento in the historical city center of Lima, to view various Peruvian Nativity scenes. After all, it is Christmas season, not the season of matadors. My favorite nativity scene is the one where baby Jesus looks like the offspring of Mr. Potato Head, not Virgin Mary. Then, there’s always full-length portraits of guys with lambchop sideburns and tights.

Another art exhibit in the city center featured these colorful Peruvian bells of yesteryear. Women had to keep their faces covered, just like Covid.

You can also try Sanguito Rico’s head cake. I really want to know the backstory about this recipe. It tastes like gingerbread dough.

Whatever neighborhood you venture to in Lima, watch for phone thieves. The other day, I was approached by a nice looking kid on his bike. He stopped, seeing me fumble with my phone. Assuming I was lost, he asked if I needed his help navigating back to Kennedy Parque and motioned for me to him my phone. I didn’t take his bait.

But there are always folks in this city who can sleep through the cake, the art, the Christmas spirit and the petty thieves.

Go figure.

You’ll find a lot of charm, and not one Starbucks. Now get your bodyguards and go!