“I see an eagle!” screamed one first grader.
“I do, too!” screamed another.
I had doubts if an American Eagle escaped to Lima, Peru, in spite of the divisive week in politics. But the week of birdwatching with the elementary students inspired me to do a bit of my own at the Paracas National Reserve, an easy safe bus ride from Lima (250 kilometers). There are several buses daily on the Cruz Del Sur line, all safe and clean, and you are guaranteed a seat next to a passenger who doesn’t know not to cross the armrest.
I got sucked down the birdwatching hole because well, it was there, this gigatnic sinkhole in Peru which has more birds than any other country, at least eighteen hundred species. And, a fact that amazed kindergartners, that’s almost a different bird for everyday they have been alive.
But as a hobby, birdwatching is the adult equivalent of collecting baseball cards. You want to see how many birds you can collect on your list at websites such as the Merlin Bird app or E-Bird. you can knock off your list, learning a few stats along the way. It’s a great way to focus one’s attention away from the headlines, from city-wide protests in Lima to spirit-breaking news from America.
So once in Paracas, I join a local tour to the reserve–all are the same– the price 35 soles (about ten bucks). You can ride a bike but the non-changing miles of sand would drive me bonkers. Plus, you’d need a gallons of sunscreen. But however you get there, you’ll bound to see some f breathtaking places.
There are also lots of beaches at Paracas Natural Reserve, so you’ll see sunbathers as well as birds.
I located a hotlist of birds to find in Paracas, Bird List – Bahía Paracas, Ica, Peru – eBird Hotspot. Learning birds is as challenging as learning the differences between the subtle vowel tones of Chinese. Does this bird have yellow feet or red? A red ring around its nose or is it just the tip? How on earth can you tell a Belcher’s Gull from a Grey-hooded Gull or an Elegant Tern from a Royal Tern?
I purchased a pair of binoculars–the best one could find in Lima–and recommended from a birdie friend, at Coolbox, a Peruvian RadioShack, where the customer in front of me line was escorted out the door for trying to pass a phony bill.
Not getting used to binoculars is a lot like getting a new pair of glasses. When you put them down for a moment to find change to pay the ice cream man, you feel a bit of vertigo.
When you view a bird close-up through binoculars? It has a 3-D effect like an old school view-master with the round disk slides of animals. I always wanted one of those things. I didn’t see the rare blue footed boobie, but many with red and yellow legs, some with long necks, others with flat bills.
They did inspire me what to eat for dinner. I am not sure birds drink, but if they did, they would choose Cusqueña.
I also saw a pelican (which I can recognize thanks to cartoons as a kid), a turkey vulture and seals bobbing among fishing boats.
I also recognized this yellow glowing orb in the sky.
Goodbye Paracas and my feathered friends! Now back to grading papers and stepping in dog poop on Lima sidewalks!